Making Daily Headlines · Page 8
New York Receives Another Reason to Discuss Lunch Seriously
· New York time
Santo Taco is serving taquería classics to New Yorkers, drawing on creator Santiago Perez's inspiration from the flavors and traditions of Mexico City, CBS reports. The chain brings that food experience into a city with considerable enthusiasm for both eating and explaining where one should eat. A restaurant translating a food tradition into another place faces a practical balancing act. It must make the meal work for local customers without reducing its identity to a decorative adjective. Flavor, preparation and the experience of ordering carry more weight than an especially energetic paragraph on a wall. New York contributes its own established ritual: discovering somewhere, recommending it, then becoming mildly concerned that other people have followed the recommendation. A successful lunch can become a small civic argument about queues, convenience and who knew about it first. The useful attraction here is simpler than that performance. Taquería classics offer a direct invitation to eat something rooted in a particular culinary tradition. Not every meal needs to become a personal brand statement. If lunch can briefly transport a customer without requiring airport security, that is already a substantial service. The only itinerary many diners need is counter, table and possibly back to the counter.
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